SPA training and assessment courses last a minimum of two days or twenty hours.
Between training and assessment candidates are expected to gain extensive supervisory and personal climbing experience. Every opportunity should be taken to practise the skills learned during training.

Before you register make sure you can answer yes to the following questions.

• Are you at least 18 years old?

• Do you have 12 months rock climbing experience?

• Are you an active climber with experience of lead climbing? Have you led at least 15 routes outdoors on leader placed protection

The following is directly from the UKMTB website.

1.1 INTRODUCTION
The numbers of organised groups enjoying rock climbing and abseiling on outcrops, crags, quarries and climbing walls has multiplied in recent years. The MLTUK and its member organisations are concerned that high standards of supervision are maintained, so that both enjoyment and safety are enhanced, without compromising either the sport of climbing or the participation of other crag or wall users. High standards of supervision and organisation are best achieved through experience, personal qualities, training and validation.

This scheme has been designed to provide a level of basic competence for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. Whilst the award does include a measure of personal competence it is not designed as such, and should not be used as either an entry requirement or measure of suitability for individuals who wish to climb on climbing walls or crags.

1.2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME
The scheme is for those who are in a position of responsibility during single pitch rock climbing activities. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe and quiet enjoyment of the activity. Completion of a training course alone, without taking an assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the trainee.

It is valid throughout the United Kingdom and Ireland (MLTUK National Guidelines 1995) and is recognised by the Adventure Activity Licensing Authority. Completion of a training course, without taking an assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable benefit to the candidate.

For the purposes of this scheme, a single pitch route is one which: is climbed without intermediate stances; is described as a single pitch in the guidebook; allows students to be lowered to the ground at all times; is non-tidal; is non serious, having little objective danger and presents no difficulties on approach or retreat (such as route finding, scrambling or navigating). If you are in doubt about a particular venue then a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or British Association of Mountain Guides is the appropriate person to approach for advice.

It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a leader possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners. It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.

The scheme does not cover:

• general mountaineering skills, such as those needed to approach and retreat from mountain and moorland crags
• multi-pitch rock climbing skills, the teaching of leading, or their supervision (these are covered by the Mountain Instructor Scheme)
• access to tidal sea cliffs, or any location where escape is not easily possible the gauging of candidate’s personal qualities.

1.3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME
The scheme comprises:

• pre registration personal climbing experience
• registration, joining a mountaineering council and being issued with a logbook
• minimum two day training course
• consolidation period between training and assessment
• two day assessment course
• continuing experience entered in logbookBack to Top

1.4 REGISTRATION
Candidates wishing to register with the Award must:

• have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on single pitch crags
• have at least twelve months' experience of rock climbing and have climbed at least 20 graded rock climbs, at least some of which should be Severe grade
• be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration
• be an individual or club members of a Mountaineering Council

On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, the home nation training board will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be retained by the MLTUK and progression through the scheme will be recorded on the National Mountain Training Database.

1.5 TRAINING
Before attending a training course, candidates must be registered with the Single Pitch Award (SPA) (See 4 above).

Training courses are run by approved course providers and are at least two days long and include evening sessions (20 hours contact time). The training course will have a minimum of four candidates present, and a maximum of eight. The maximum trainer/candidate ratio is 1:4. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better chance of seeing how their own skills compare and they also get the opinion of two trainers Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards

The training course is for potential leaders and assumes basic competence as a rock climber with experience of leading climbs (See Appendix III). It will emphasise those skills which candidates might have difficulty in learning without expert guidance. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves.

The Director of Training will give oral comments to each candidate and will endorse the appropriate page of the logbook with comments about the programme, crags and walls used and conditions encountered. Candidates will receive individual recommendations for the consolidation period. The training course does not involve any written reports concerning the performance or standard of candidates. The title page of the logbook will be endorsed after a training course with an approved sticker. This will show the date and course provider number specific to your trainer. In exceptional circumstances it may be possible to register on, or immediately after, the course, but the trainer is obliged to submit a report to the Training Board containing all registered candidates’ details within 30 days.

Candidates are encouraged to use the skills checklist in the logbook to evaluate their current skills and to plan, with their trainers, their particular route towards assessment.

The Boards maintain close links with every provider through these reports submitted after each course. We also have a rolling programme of visits to courses and you may meet a moderator on your course. These visits not only maintain parity between providers but also provide a link between you and the Boards.Back to Top1.6 LOGBOOK
Experience gained by candidates should be recorded in the logbook. Entries should be concise and easily read, and should include all rock climbing and other relevant experience.

1.6 LOGBOOK

The logbook is divided into five sections:

• Pre-training experience
• Training course
• Consolidation period
• Assessment course
• Post-assessment experience

The logbook is designed to help you demonstrate your previous experience to others. If you fill it in before a training course you enable the trainers to discuss your particular training needs and to agree which areas of the syllabus you may need to concentrate on before taking an assessment. Few of us can remember every detail of every climb we have done, but this is no reason to avoid using the logbook. List examples of the variety of experiences you have gained and give details of the most notable (or exciting) days out. The information you give does not have to be verified by a third party but will form the basis for discussion at training and assessment

1.7 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD
Candidates will generally see many new ideas and techniques during training and will therefore need some time to practise and evaluate these before taking the assessment. During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the supervision of others. The MLTUK recommends that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.

1.8 ASSESSMENT
Before attending an assessment course, candidates must:

• have registered
• have attended a training course
• have gained further experience
• be proficient in the use of climbing walls
• be competently leading Severe grade climbs
• hold a valid First Aid Certificate

During the assessment course, which is two days long and includes evening sessions, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The assessment takes twenty hours (often a concentrated weekend) and is run by an approved course provider who is either a Mountain Instructor or a Mountain Guide. Lists of all approved providers are available from the Training Boards.

Assessors work on a ratio of 1:4 (or less). The overall course size can range from two candidates to eight. Larger courses have dual benefits; the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better opportunity of seeing how his/her own skills compare and they ensure that you receive the opinion of two assessors.

The Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:
PASS: where a satisfactory knowledge and application of the syllabus and the necessary experience and attributes were demonstrated.
DEFERRED: where the performance was generally up to standard but complete proficiency has not been attained in one aspect of the syllabus. A one day reassessment will be required.
FAIL: where the performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. Further training may be recommended before a complete reassessment can be carried out.

In all cases the result will be discussed with you and recorded in your logbook (the page is inserted by the course provider). Successful candidates may receive only brief notes on this page but candidates who are deferred or failed will receive specific written feedback. This will include the reasons for the result, recommendations on the additional experience needed and details of the format for subsequent re-assessment.

In considering the decision of the assessors, candidates are asked to listen to all elements of the final interview and wherever possible to raise any concerns at that time. If, on reflection, the discussion and the written report do not fit your impression of the assessment and your performance, then contact the course provider for additional clarification, in writing if necessary.

1.10 SINGLE PITCH CLIMBS
For the purposes of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:

• of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:of this scheme a single pitch rock climb is one which:is climbed without intermediate stances
• is described as a single pitch in the guidebook
• allows climbers to be lowered to the ground at all times
• is non-tidal
• is non-serious and has little objective danger
• presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating.